![]() ![]() This skim coat is very important, you want it to extend over the COMPLETE area, this is well past the damage you have been working. If you have a surface that is very close with only a few VERY MINOR low spots like poor feathering onto the metal, poor transitions from one application of filler to another, or from the metal that is "poking" up here and there you can do the LAST skim coat. If you don't work with it a bit more, but NEVER add a little here or there and think you will finish it without a skim coat. If you now have a surface that ONE skim coat will fill, then apply it. Re-cut these last low spots you have just filled with the same grit you have been using (most likely 36). If you have a few low spots add a bit more filler to ONLY those spots. If you happen to have a few high spots, see if you can tap them down. But I would say that this would be limited to an application that is no larger than about 8 inches. In other words, if you can cut it fast with only 80 then do it. You can cut it with 36 40 or 80 depending on how big the area you are working is. Cut that coat NOT to make it perfect, but to get the basic shape and filling you need as a base for the skim coat. ![]() Just apply a nice coat of filler (what ever brand, whatever style, we will put that aside right now). I was taught this procedure after doing bodywork for a number of years and it really works well: Don't try to block out that first coat, just use it as a base for the LAST skim coat. What ever tools you use the trick is to not add the last "skim coat' till you KNOW that it is all you need. I personally recommend Evercoat products. "Spot putty" (junk, not recommended) Usually found in a toothpaste tube looking container.ģM's "Acryl-green" red or blue #05960,05964,05966 I is very hard to sand and not good for the finish work (needs a skim coat of a “reg” filler or polyester putty) but will fill much more per coat reg filler and has more corrosion resistance.Ī Fiberglass reinforced filler is similar.Įvercoat's “Metal-2-Metal”, “Everglass”, “Kitty Hair”, “Tiger Hair”ģM's 05815 Short stand filler, 05813 Long strand filler.Įvercoats RAGE or "Lite weight" and others.Įvercoat's "Polyester glazing putty", "Easy sand" and others.ģM's "Flowable finishing putty"#05824 or "Piranha"#05821. These can be aluminum filled body filler for metal surfaces. Some examples of these products are as follows. The old "spot putties" DO NOT use a hardener and are simply lacquer primer. Being they are polyester they use a hardener and CURE like fiberglass. They cost MUCH more, but are well worth it for skim coats and minor repairs. The Putties have a finer ground talc than "regular" filler. The fillers have talc and some other components that give it "body", that is the basic difference between fiberglass resin and polyester body fillers. They are both, you guessed it "Polyester" based. "Regular" polyester body filler, and polyester "putty" is basically the same thing. Below that is the "Basics of Basics" to using these products. There is no reason you would put polyester filler over polyester glazing putty. There are 1K glazing putty that is junk, and there is 2K polyester glazing putty like Evercoats part # 400 & 407. It depends on what exactly you are calling "glazing putty".
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